TravelJems

Arriving into Naples

We caught a late flight into Naples and touched down at 10pm on a Saturday. The plan had been to wing it and jump on a bus to our apartment in Ercolano but we saw a few too many negative reviews online about the public bus availability and booked ahead to be safe. So, with a little help from Get Your Guide we booked two bus transfers to Garibaldi station for less than £5 a ticket. We were glad we booked ahead when we saw one couple turned away from the bus and told to get the train.

The bus ride to Garibaldi was physically bumpy but, in theory, smooth. After a half hour drive we hopped off at Garibaldi to find there were no buses or trains running to Ercolano. Because of this, we ended up jumping in a local taxi. This cost €50 (which was €30 cheaper than Uber was quoting.)

With Mount Vesuvius behind us, we took the short walk to the apartment and settled down to sleep.

Day 1 in Naples – Herculaneum and Ercolano

Waking up near the base of Mount Vesuvius was the perfect start to our Naples trip. We could have stared at the volcano all day, but instead we decided to dedicate day 1 to exploring Ercolano which meant starting with the archeological site the Herculaneum.

The Herculaneum was a 15 minute walk from our apartment. Entry was quick since we arrived just after it opened and the tour groups hadn’t yet arrived. We opted not to get a guide since we knew we were heading for the interactive museum afterwards which would answer any questions that the signage couldn’t address.

For a good half an hour we almost had the place to ourselves. There is no order to how you should approach visiting the different areas of the site, but we decided to leave the antiques room and boat exhibit until last – when the sun would be blazing and we’d be grateful for the shade.

Overall we really enjoyed visiting the Herculaneum and it’s a great way to ease into your tours of historical sites in Naples. Unlike Pompeii, which was buried under volcanic ash, the Herculaneum was covered by a pyroclastic surge, preserving many organic materials like wooden furniture and even food – so it’s worth paying a visit!

After waving goodbye to the Herculaneum we headed straight out the gates and leapt at the first cafe we saw for some much needed lunch. We quickly filled our stomachs with mozzarella paninis and went in search of the virtual museum, Museuo Archeologico Virtuale.

Visiting the Museuo Archeologico Virtuale

The MAV (Virtual Archaeological Museum) in Herculaneum offers a unique, multisensory journey into the past, showcasing life in Herculaneum and Pompeii before the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. Using a mix of technology, the museum virtually reconstructs ancient cities, so you can explore their history and daily life.

Located in the centre of the town, the MAV was surprisingly quiet. (We were the only ones there!) I think it was so quiet because it appeared that the majority of people came on a coach, solely to see the Herculaneum site, and then hop on the bus back to the coach to the main city – but I really do think it’s worth stopping by the MAV to do some interactive learning.

Day 2 in Naples – Pompeii

What better way to recover from a busy day in the city than to travel back in time at Pompeii, home to the oldest known amphitheatre in the world that was built in around 70 BC to host gladiatorial games and other public spectacles.

The train from Ercolano Scavi departed early enough for us to arrive at the historic UNESCO site before the crowds descended. With smug grins, we entered quickly and enjoyed having the place almost to ourselves for a while. We opted for the Plus ticket for €22 because prior to arriving we downloaded the MyPompeii app which acted as a tour guide that we could access at our own pace. The app reviews didn’t scream excellence, but we found it really interesting and helpful. The information it provided was just the right amount and helped us engage in the things we were looking at.

A common question I receive is “how long do you need to spend in Pompeii?” Honestly no amount of time could ever really be enough for someone as intrigued by history as I am. There is so much to see and so much detail in every single area of the site. For some, you may feel that once you’ve seen 5 or 6 villas, you’ve seen enough, but they are all so different and really worth taking the extra time to visit them all. We were also lucky enough to spot some people working on excavating a floor mosaic which we found fascinating.

People who say you only only need 3 hours for Pompeii are either extremely-fast walkers or missing a bunch of sites. If you are pushed for time then allocate a minimum of half a day. This won’t be enough to get around the whole site and see everything, but it would be a good amount of time to get a flavour for the place. Ideally you should clear out an entire day for your visit; have your lunch there, sit where the ancients sat, seek out shade beneath a giant column, learn, and simply take it all in.

Accessibility at Pompeii is a topic worth considering. While the site is advertised as wheelchair accessible, navigating it can be challenging. This also applies to pushchairs. Although you can enter with a wheelchair, the journey may not be smooth throughout. The ancient stone streets are not ideal for anything on wheels, and even the paths beside the roads can be uneven and have sudden gaps. It’s important to do your research and make an informed decision based on your needs. During our visit, we assisted several people, including those with walking sticks, wheelchairs, and prams, who encountered difficulties. Planning ahead can help ensure a more enjoyable experience.

Day 3 in Naples – Sorrento

Naples has its own sort of charm but, in my view, it’s not a charm that can quite compare to Sorrento. If you are craving the cerulean sea, beautiful architecture, and the bitter taste of lemons, I highly recommend a day trip out to this sunny spot. Heading out early, we arrived as what this charming destination and were immediately surrounded by vibrant yellow lemons hanging from the many trees dotted around the streets.

The cheerful hue of citrus yellow many trees is something that has been truly embraced by the community, spilling from the fruit into designs printed on pottery, clothing and homewares. Speaking of lemons, please make sure you try the famous Amalfi Lemon Sorbet. It’s so good that you might just have a taste and almost walk off without paying for it before regaining your senses.

You’ll have no trouble finding a place to rest or eat with fabulous views of the coast whilst here. TIP: Ensure you have money available in your budget for plenty of lemony souvenirs. You’ll find yourself pointing out items for loved ones, and yourself too, and before you know it you’ll be a hundred euros down with handfuls of shopping bags.

Sorrento is best discovered on foot, unless you enjoy hair-raising drives. Just look at this terrifyingly narrow and steep road running down the edge of a cliff!

Our full day in Sorrento left us feeling warm and cheerful. We felt as though we had been able to see so much, but that we could easily book a weekend away here in the future. It’s so easily reachable by an affordable train, and the perfect place to go if you have had enough of the hustle and bustle of the busy city.

Optional – Day 4 in Naples – Vesuvius, the main sites and Maradona

Visiting Vesuvius during a trip to Naples is considered a must-do-adventure. Personally, I decided to admire it from the ground after being somewhat underwhelmed after seeing what a volcano looks like up close elsewhere – ashy, cloudy, and rocky. For this reason we instead chose to go on a hike that took us down a long road that runs all the past the volcano to see it from all angles.

If, unlike me, you would really like to visit Vesuvius up close (and by close, I mean by standing on it), the most convenient way to reach Vesuvius is by taking the Circumvesuviana train from Napoli Centrale to Ercolano or Pompeii. From there you will be able to jump on a bus that will take you to the National Park entrance. You can go it alone in this way or book a tour that will pick you up from a convenient location, take you around the park and drop you off.

Following our hike past the great volcano we hopped on the enarest train and headed into the city centre in search of the pizzeria made famous by Julia Roberts in the film Eat Pray Love. Sad to say that the queue was incredibly long and the wait, we decided, was not quite worth it. Reluctantly, we walked away from the restaurant to instead go in search of the equally as famous cafe, Gran Cafe Gambrinus. Happy to say that we were quickly able to grab ourselves a yummy snack in the form of a cappuchino and sfogliatella.

Fed and watered, we continued on a tour around the city on foot and by metro to visit some must see sites such as Gesù Nuovo, and The National Archaeological Museum until the evening.

With our final day in Naples coming to an end, we headed out to see just how big the Maradona obsession was after hearing about a street that had been kitted out in an extravagant amount of Maradona merch. Unsure of the exact location, we approached a strangers with no other words than “Maradona?” With a smile, the friendly man pointed us exactly where we wanted to go.

Turning left onto a thin alleyway, we could immediately see flags, shirts, shoes, toys and more, hanging from balconies, windows and shop entrances. Looking up inclining hill we slowly plodded up with our bags on our backs until we reached a small courtyard. Now the graffiti showed itself. Everywhere we looked were portraits big and small of the legend Naples loves, Maradona. With no personal interest in football I found the whole thing bonkers, but my partner was happy – especially with his purchase of some Maradona crisps and Maradona drink!

We spent a while people watching here until it became quite crowded as music began to play. Tired and fulfilled, we waved goodbye to our last random adventure here and boarded the metro to the airport.

Planning a visit to Naples?

5 quick top tips:

• 4 days is perfect to see the main sites and squeeze in a day trip to Sorrento.
• Pompeii is best seen over the course of a full day.
• Did you even go to Naples if you didn’t try Baba Napoletano and/or Sfogliatelle? Try them!
• Look for rooms outside of the main city if you prefer more chilled mornings and evenings.
• No need to book a guide to Sorrento, just jump on a train and take a stroll.

Thanks for reading. I hope this helps with your trip planning to Naples, Italy.